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Inspect the Health of Your Home


Inspector with magnifying glassThe health of your home affects the inhabitants; inspect it often. Following are a few items to check when assessing the wellness of any home. These are particularly useful when considering purchasing a new home.

Buying a home will involve spending 15 to 30 years of your salary! Remember an appraiser doesn't always inspect the home for problems, but you should before buying. Home inspectors can help to find problems, and hiring one to look at a home you are serious about may save you money and grief in the long run.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Be sure to look behind or under pictures, rugs, tapestries, curtains, entertainment centers, blinds, posters and other items that can obstruct inspection. If possible, schedule an inspection at night as well as in the day. Nighttime lighting can reveal poorly patched wall board, uneven surfaces and poor lighting conditions.
Find out if the water in the area is soft or hard. If hard water, it may need to be treated chemically which would indicate an ongoing cost of home ownership.
Locate the fuse or breaker panels in the home. They should be in easy access areas and clearly marked by circuit or area next to each breaker or fuse. Code requires that breakers are used instead of fuses for safety reasons. If it is not a breaker panel, significant wiring and panel installation may need to be done by a certified electrician.
If the home doesn't have cable TV, turn on the TV and change to several local channels to check reception.

Widows: Does the area surrounding the windows look well insulated? Are they double pane? Closely inspect the window latch. Is it secure? Has it been pried open or painted shut? If wood, is it corroded or showing water damage? Check the caulking around the window pane. If badly cracked, it may need a new caulking over it. Wet your hand and move it around the window frame. Do you feel a draft?
Flooring: Does the floor creak as you walk over it? It may become a bigger annoyance the longer you own the home.
Wallboard / sheet rock: Uneven surfaces may indicate water damage or even possible flooding. Are the corners of the room or ceiling cracked or appear to be patched? Run your hand along the wall and ceiling near the corners. Visual inspection may not always show problems. If painted with dull finish, dirt and streak may be more visible and be harder to clean. In a corner near the floor, gently scrape your fingernail over the paint. If it peels the wall may have had an oil-base paint that was painted over with a latex-base paint which should not be done unless proper treatment is done to the oil-based paint. You may get stuck with stripping, prepping and repainting all wall surfaces again.
Structural: Look at the ceiling in large open areas. If a wall has been taken out, a seam should be visible. If the wall was a load bearing wall, ask what was used to reinforce the ceiling. This can present a very serious health hazard.

KITCHEN

Stove and oven: Turn on all the burners on the stove and oven and feel above them to see if they all heat. Turn the oven on broil and look to see if the top element in the oven gets hot. Turn the oven setting from broil to cook. Do both elements work? Does the oven have a self-cleaning option? Is there a stove fan either above or built into the surface of the stove? When cooking fish and other smelly dishes a fan can keep the house and its surfaces from absorbing an odor.
Drawers and cupboards: Open all drawers and cupboards and look for misfits on hinges and drawer sliders. Do you see wood chips or sawdust in the drawer? This could be a telltale sign of misalignment of the drawer and create problems.
Sink and disposal: Get a white bowl from the cupboard and put it under the sink as you turn it on. Is there any sediment or discoloration in the water? This may allude to old plumbing or root-bound pipes. Open the cupboard under the sink - is there visible water damage? Turn on the sink and then the disposal. Does it sound and operate properly?
Electrical outlets: Look at the electrical outlets near the sink. Are they GFI outlets? A GFI outlet usually has a black and red button between the plug inlets. This is generally required by code and affects safety of using appliances near water. Plug an appliance in to verify operation.
Refrigerator: Does the refrigerator operate properly? Is there unnecessary frost build-up in the freezer? Is the fridge and older model requiring freon? How old is it?
Flooring: If linoleum, it should be in good condition with little or no discoloration. Look at the flooring at the base of a cupboard in a low traffic area. This may show what the original flooring looked like. If tile was used in the kitchen, bend down and place the open palm of your hand on the tile. Is it excessively cold? Remove rugs and other items that cover the flooring to check for damage.
Lighting / ventilation: Is there ample light for cooking and reading recipes? Generally a kitchen is well lit with fluorescent box lighting. If the stove doesn't have an overhead fan hood, look for a vent fan in the ceiling and check if it’s operational. Do the windows open to provide proper ventilation for the fan?

BASEMENT

Furnace: Check to see that all blowers and burners work on the heating and air conditioning properly. It may be a good idea to purchase a carbon monoxide detector to take with you on the home inspection. Look at the furnace and the date of manufacture. If the furnace is more than 8 years old, you may want to consider replacing it with a newer, more energy efficient model. Is the gas main easy to access? Follow the ducts from the furnace outward. The duct work should sit up above the bottom of the floor joists to enable finishing the ceiling. Otherwise a hanging ceiling may be necessary. Ask the seller when the last time they had the duct and ventilation system cleaned by a certified professional. This will help to reduce dust and prevent allergies.
Water heater: Hold the detector near the vents of the water heater. Some water heaters are set for sea level operation and can may expel unnecessary natural gas or carbon monoxide. Get down and visually inspect the water heater. This may involve removing the pilot door. Is the bottom rusted and corroded? If so it may need to be replaced in the upcoming months. Smell for natural gas leaks around both furnace and water heater. Repairing a leak may not be costly but should be known about before the purchase of a home.
Structural: Look for cracks and unstable concrete conditions if unfinished. Concrete patches that appear new by lighter coloration may indicate excessive water damage or structure integrity compromises. Does the floor have a drain? Is the drain near the furnace? If not, a fixed humidifier may not be a future option. Lift the drain plate if possible and look at the level of water, if there is any. Is it well below the floor line?

BATHROOM

Sink: Open the cupboard under the sink - is there visible water damage? Turn the hot water on. How fast does it get hot? Turn the hot water off and the cold water on. Is there throughput of water? Do the pipes make noises or creak? Inspect the sink overflow under the sink. Is it hooked up to spill back into the drain? If so, plug the sink and fill it up to overflow. Make sure there are no leaks. Unplug the sink and see how fast the water drains. Problems with water draining can indicate clogged pipes, poor plumbing and sometimes root-bound pipes that can be very expensive to have fixed. Watch the sink faucet, does it drip?
Bathtub / Shower: Does the tub or shower drip? Does the enamel or ceramic coating of the tub have cracks or chips? Step into the tub. Is is secure? Does the tub have an access door near it to maintain plumbing? Plug the tub. Is it automatic or require a tub stopper? Turn on the hot water and let it fill the tub. Does the hot water run out before filling enough for a generous bath? If so, you may be in for cold showers. Generally a shower will use less water than a bath. Unplug the tub and check to see if it drains quickly. Once drained, turn on the cold water and the shower if available. Let run for several minutes. Does the water drain quick enough? If not, serious plumbing measures might need to be taken so soap buildup doesn't occur. If the basement is unfinished, locate the area under the bathroom and look for water damage indicated by stains on the floor joists. If the bathroom has a hot tub or jacuzzi tub, have an electrician look at the wiring and proximity to the pump to avoid shock.
Toilet: Flush the toilet. Does it stop filling properly? Now put several feet of toilet paper in the bowl. Flush again and see if proper pressure clears the paper. Some newer toilets don't have enough pressure to remove heavy sediment. Open the top of the toilet tank. Are there mineral deposits from the water? If so, the water in the area may need to be treated. Examine the base where the toilet meets the floor. Make sure it is securely fastened to the floor. Look around the back, under the tank for water leaks and floor discoloration. Wiggle the lid and seat to make sure the hinges are secure and the fasteners are not stripped. Is the toilet paper within reach of the toilet? Close the lid on the toilet and sit on it. Shift your weight from front to back and side to side. The toilet should be secure.
Vanity: Splash a good handful of water from the sink up on the counter. Look for the direction it flows. This may indicate that the vanity is not level. Excess splash water may puddle up in the lowest area of the counter leaving soap buildup rings after evaporation. If there is a medicine cabinet, is it secured well? Will it need to be replaced because of rust or corrosion?
Widows: Is the bathroom window pane privacy glass? If not, curious eyes may be able to see what's happening in the bathroom even if blinds are installed. If the window has a wood frame look for wood rot. If the window is in the shower, look for proper angle of water runoff to eliminate rot and puddling on the sill or in the track.
Walls, Wallboard / sheet rock: The bathroom is one of the highest-humidity and water-prone areas of the house. Look for wallboard rot and damage. If water resistant sheet rock was not used, mold and corrosion may damage walls and ceilings. If tile walls show serious grout corrosion, the tile may need to be laid again.
Flooring: If linoleum, check to see that the edges nearest the sink and bathtub are not water damaged or delaminating. If tile floor, look for grout problems or rot. If one foot square adhesive linoleum tiles are used for flooring, this may indicate the underlying floor is damaged or was not aesthetically pleasing. These linoleum tiles can be damaged in a shorter period of time by water and humidity, if not sealed properly because of numerous seams.
Electrical outlets: Look at the electrical outlets near any water source. Are they GFI outlets? A GFI outlet usually has a black and red button between the plug inlets. This is generally, required by code and affects safety of using appliances near water. Plug an appliance in to verify operation.
Lighting / ventilation: Is there ample light for makeup around the vanity area? Generally bathrooms are well lit around the mirror or vanity. If the bathroom has an overhead fan, check if it’s operational. Do the windows open to provide proper ventilation for the fan, or are they painted shut?

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